Elegant Lady Plumbing

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While replacing a failed macerator pump this week, I took apart all the copper piping in the waste water bay to gain easier access to the pump and to polish the piping. This experience has led me to offer a word of caution for those with polished copper piping in their coaches.

Several years ago, I had to replace the piping that goes from the top right fitting into the tank. Upon inspection, I noticed that the pipe had developed perforations due to internal corrosion. Unfortunately, the replacement pipe is now showing similar signs of internal corrosion, which indicates that its lifespan is also limited.

The assembly extending from the center top of the compartment to the gray water by-pass valve is showing significant corrosion and is becoming paper thin in some areas. It also had extensive internal buildup of a black material that would break off in chunks. This tubing assembly will also need to be replaced soon.

The tube from the bottom of the holding tank to the macerator inlet appears to be in good condition with no evidence of corrosion. The tube from the top left fitting to the tank is also free from corrosion and buildup.

This corrosion issue is concerning, as I am not sure what could be causing it since we only use mild soaps or dishwashing soap. I’ve found that the affected pipes are deteriorating faster than expected, and the life of this tubing is limited.

For those with similar waste water piping, it’s a good idea to be vigilant for any signs of corrosion or perforations, which could lead to leaks into the bay. Sometimes, plastic piping might be less visually appealing but can offer better durability in these situations.

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You know what to expect, now, after you post pictures of that magnificent copper tubing/piping.

Incoming.

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Geritol Alert!

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I was prepared for all kinds of feedback, but it seems this group has mellowed with age. Skiffer wanted me to clarify that I disassembled the piping to polish the inside, but let’s be honest, that’s a bit over the top. I did it once, but it was too much work to justify making it a regular thing.

[MyPrevost]

Well, thanks for the heads-up, Jon. I’m not looking forward to all that work myself.

Did you consider stainless piping to keep all the metals in the correct order on the periodic table?

Plastic! Wasn’t that the word in “Mrs. Robinson” in the movie?

If you get the copper gold-plated, it won’t corrode and you won’t have to polish it.

JIM

[MyPrevost]

Well Jon, I am truly sorry to see your problems with your Liberty pipes. No negative comments!

[MyPrevost]

You know what to expect, now, after you post pictures of that magnificent copper tubing/piping.

Incoming.

Beauty is only skin deep…

[MyPrevost]

Hi John,

When you think about it, copper is quite vulnerable to minerals and corrosive chemicals. In science labs, we use glass for waste lines. In homes, it’s either cast iron or plastic. On the streets, it’s typically concrete, clay, or plastic pipes. There are even companies that come into facilities where copper water lines are leaking, dry the pipes out, blast them clean, and then coat the inside with an epoxy-like substance.

 

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Jon
Are your gate valve metal also?
GregM

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The gate valve is a Valterra plastic valve available at Camping World and painted gold.

[MyPrevost]

So what was wrong with the macerator, electrical or mechanical?

JIM

[MyPrevost]

While replacing a failed macerator pump this week, I took apart all the copper piping in the waste water bay to gain easier access to the pump and to polish the piping. This experience has led me to offer a word of caution for those with polished copper piping in their coaches.

Several years ago, I had to replace the piping that goes from the top right fitting into the tank. Upon inspection, I noticed that the pipe had developed perforations due to internal corrosion. Unfortunately, the replacement pipe is now showing similar signs of internal corrosion, which indicates that its lifespan is also limited.

The assembly extending from the center top of the compartment to the gray water by-pass valve is showing significant corrosion and is becoming paper thin in some areas. It also had extensive internal buildup of a black material that would break off in chunks. This tubing assembly will also need to be replaced soon.

The tube from the bottom of the holding tank to the macerator inlet appears to be in good condition with no evidence of corrosion. The tube from the top left fitting to the tank is also free from corrosion and buildup.

This corrosion issue is concerning, as I am not sure what could be causing it since we only use mild soaps or dishwashing soap. I’ve found that the affected pipes are deteriorating faster than expected, and the life of this tubing is limited.

For those with similar waste water piping, it’s a good idea to be vigilant for any signs of corrosion or perforations, which could lead to leaks into the bay. Sometimes, plastic piping might be less visually appealing but can offer better durability in these situations.

With the macerator discharge entering below the gray water by-pass valve, wouldn’t you be creating a black water by-pass with no more control than the macerator pump switch, or did I misinterpret something?

Do you mean that when your job is done, the gray water will then exit the bus at the existing macerator discharge point at the right rear?

I don’t have a hose bib at the exit point of my gray water by-pass.

JIM

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Jim,

On mine, the grey water bypass discharge pipe was threaded PVC, so I just adapted down to a garden house fitting.

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My gray water by-pass exits the bay downward as a copper tube, then transitions to a PVC elbow via a No-Hub fitting (a rubber connection), and attaches to a copper hose connection.

I’m rerouting the macerator discharge to go from the macerator outlet to a point on the gray water discharge tube, positioned below the shut-off valve and above the floor. To discharge gray water, open the valve; to use the macerator, close the valve and turn on the macerator pump.

The macerator motor is working, but the pump isn’t pumping. I suspect the impeller is shot. There are kits available for rebuilding, so I’ll fix it and keep it as a spare. With reduced back pressure, the impeller should last longer. I considered adding a dedicated hose connection for the macerator but prefer not to add more holes.

 

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Jon: You made my day because my budget Liberty has plastic pipe. I’m sorry to hear about your troubles, but I’m glad I don’t have to deal with corrosion issues. Maybe I should find some plastic polish and make those pipes shine. As expected, here’s a bit of flak for you. Despite that, you’re still our fearless leader. Metal enthusiasts may dislike plastic, but in this case, it seems like the better choice. We’ve used stainless steel for solar water tanks, but in areas with corrosive water, copper was necessary. For waste water, lead, lead-coated copper, cast iron, or plastic are the best options.

Cheers!

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