Engine battery charger

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Today, I was waiting for UPS to deliver my fans, so I took the opportunity to install the charger for the engine batteries. I believe this was inspired by a how-to article from Mango, but if I’ve credited the wrong person, I sincerely apologize.

Initially, I planned to drill through the base plate in the engine compartment, but I opted instead to mount it on top of the trailer relay box. I considered using screws to secure it, but I decided to use silicone to maintain the box’s integrity and avoid having screws sticking into the relay area.

The gray split-loom contains the leads for the charger, which I concealed under the base plate that sits above the batteries and holds the hose reel for the pressure washer.

While I was working on this project in the wind, the engine bay side door kept swinging into my back, despite my efforts to push the hinge knuckle all the way back.

To solve this, I drilled a hole through the hinge and inserted a cotter pin to keep the door securely open. I also drilled another hole in the door frame to hold the pin so I wouldn’t have to hunt for it when I wanted to lock the door open.

I’ve attached pictures for you to check out!

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Nice job Jeep, that’s exactly where I put mine and used double sided sticky tape and a nylon strap to hold in place. Looks like you went up to the unused block heater plug also.
Tom Chilcote
Trans-Specialists RV Batteries
tom@transpspecialists.net

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Yes, I used the xtra plug up yonder. Also found that GFI recepticle needs replacing too, it is cranky..

Hey, to your knowledge, is there accessory air available to the rear of the bus, or do you have to hook on in the “shoebox” under the driver’s window??

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The air valve located behind the RH tailights in the area you were working will pressurize the whole bus air system, including the aux air system.

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Diddo what Jon said, mine is on the starboard bulkhead where the door hinges are mounted in your picture.
Tom Chilcote
Trans-Specialists RV Batteries
tom@transpspecialists.net

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Can you use air from this location for powering air tools or tire inflation? Has it been through the dryer and all ??

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Warren,

The connection point for auxiliary air, whether for tools or filling tires, is located in the steer compartment, downstream from the dryer.

There should be a quick-connect coupling at the end of a manifold that has three air lines coming from the top. This is unregulated air, meaning it will have the same pressure supplied by your bus compressor.

I believe Mango recently shared some pictures of this area, but since we’re a bit disorganized and chaotic, I can’t point you to a specific location to look.

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This afternoon, I started up my coach for its monthly exercise routine.

It reached ride height without any issues, but when I tried to dump the air to level it, nothing happened. Where should I be looking? I attempted to raise the front above the normal height, but it wouldn’t move. I’m stuck in that position.

I played around with the valve control switches located just inside the right front under the driver’s seat. Everything appeared to be functioning properly, but I’m not very skilled when it comes to diagnosing this type of problem.

I’m heading to the Parliament rally in a couple of weeks, so I can manage to travel, but it should be working correctly. Any suggestions?

I’m hesitant to have the same people who fixed my grease seal last year check out my air system, as that experience still bothers me.

Lew

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Warren,
mango

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Lew,

Please provide as much detail as you can. For instance, when the coach was sitting before you raised it, was it down or just at road height?

Do you have the HWH automatic leveling system?

Describe your bus leveling system in as much detail as possible.

If I were to make a guess, I would first check the five-valve solenoid pack located on the rear wall of the steering compartment to see if the valves are cycling open and closed when you attempt to raise or lower the coach.

If those check out (I would suggest cracking the air lines to see if air escapes and stops with the switch activation), then it’s likely that the Norgren valve(s), which allow air to enter or exit the air bags, are not switching due to a stuck plunger or spool.

It sounds like the ride height valves are functioning correctly.

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Lew,

Here’s another thought regarding the leveling issue: if you lack auxiliary air pressure, you won’t be able to manually operate your leveling system. I believe the auxiliary air system has a pressure switch and valve that maintains compressor output to the primary and secondary circuits until the pressure drops to around 75 PSI. If there’s a failure in that system, you might not have auxiliary air.

If you don’t have an auxiliary air gauge, you can check to see if your seat has air or if the floor slide is functioning.

 

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Thanks Mango. Mine has one in the forward shoebox too, I was just not sure if there was another place in the engine compartment that one could sponge off of

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Jon,

The air slide and toilet are both functioning.

When I started, the coach was in the down position.

How do I check the five valves to see if they’re activating? I looked at them and tapped on them, but I’m sure a bigger hammer isn’t the solution!

I have 120 psi pressure from my auxiliary compressor, which supplies most of the system.

By cracking the line, I can confirm whether there’s air in the system. I’m pretty sure there is. I thought the air for the leveling system came from the engine compressor tank rather than the auxiliary tank.

Right now, I’m raised up to ride height (I hope) but can’t dump it or raise it any further. I’ll tinker with the solenoids, but as I mentioned, I’m not exactly sure what to do with them. I had one replaced before, and it looked like it just plugged in.

Thanks,
Lew

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Lew,

The way the solenoids function within the system (though this can vary since each converter has its own design) is that they open or close when you activate the leveling switches. Each solenoid has a small air line attached to it. By loosening these air lines, you should be able to hear air escaping, which indicates that the solenoid is either opening or closing based on the positions of the leveling switches.

If you hear air flowing and then shutting off, you can rule out a defective solenoid valve. You’ve already confirmed that your auxiliary system is being charged with air.

The air controlled by those solenoids goes to the actuators at the ends of the Norgren valves. This air moves the plunger, which in turn shifts the spool of the Norgren valve. If the spool isn’t moving side to side (usually pushed by air pressure from the solenoids and returned by a spring), then nothing will happen.

Ed Roelle, who posts on the other board, had a similar issue with his Royale, and it turned out that his auxiliary system was waterlogged, causing the valves to stick.

The leveling system is quite complex, so the best approach to isolate the problem is to methodically trace the air flow through the system to identify where it is being obstructed.

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Jon,

Problem solved!

As I started thinking about how something like this could happen, I recalled that when I changed the lights on the rocker switches, I had that side panel pulled up. I took it out to check for any disconnected wires and discovered that the multi-type plug had come loose from the upper compartment. The pigtail wasn’t very long, and I must have inadvertently pulled it out. My bride helped from the outside while I tried to feed the plug down to her. Everything is good now.

Thanks for all your help!

Happy 45th Anniversary! My third is coming up this Sunday as well. I enjoyed 42 years with my first. Enjoy the celebration!

Lew

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