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    • #12413
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      Gary asked about the life expectancies of various components, and I’d like to share my current guidelines for replacing parts and fluids proactively, rather than waiting for failures:

      • Tires: Replace every 6 years or when worn out.
      • Batteries: Replace every 5 years or sooner if issues arise.
      • Brake Chambers: Recommended replacement every 5 years. Prevost suggests changing them every 100,000 miles or one year.
      • Air Bags: Generally, they last around 10 years. Coincidentally, two members of this group with 10-year-old coaches have experienced air bag leaks. My previous coach also had an air bag leak at the 10-year mark.
      • Air Dryer: Replace every 2 years.
      • Engine Coolant: Change every 2 years.
      • Engine Oil and Filters: Change every 5,000 miles.
      • Hub Seal: Replace as necessary.
      • Air Filter: Replace as needed, based on the restrictor gauge.
      • Fuel Filters: Change every 5,000 miles.
      • Transmission Oil: Change every 25,000 miles; filters every 50,000 miles.
      • Brake Pads and Lining: Replace as necessary.
      • Air Hoses: Replace every 10 years or at the first sign of wear from chafing or cracking (this applies to rubber hoses only and does not include plastic DOT air lines).
      #12415
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      I mostly agree with your guidelines, but I’d like to suggest a few modifications:

      Tires: Replace every 5-7 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first.
      Oil & Filters: Change once a year for normal motorhome use. It’s often easier for most of us to track maintenance by date rather than mileage. The exception is the air filter, which may need to be changed more frequently due to ambient infiltration. Cleaning alone usually isn’t sufficient.
      Air Bags: Consider replacing every 7-10 years to stay ahead of potential issues.
      Batteries: Check them much more frequently than the stated replacement interval. One bad cell can cause an entire bank to “cook,” leading to more failures. Plan for replacement at around 5 years.
      Wife: Replace as needed.

      #12416
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      Nah, I was just checking to see if anyone noticed.

      Helen was napping when I wrote it, so I am pretty sure I slid by this time. But don’t get me wrong, I am NOT hen-pecked. She told me I wasn’t.

      #12417
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      Thanks, Jon and Jeff, for the valuable information! I now have a clearer understanding of the maintenance needed for these rigs.

      Jeff, do you keep a spare wife in the bay, like your spare parts? Just curious, what kind of mileage are you getting on them? Mine came with a lifetime warranty!

      Gary

      #12418
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      Jon,

      Thanks for another informative post on maintenance schedules. Another area to keep an eye on is the generator engine. I recently replaced a fuel filter just in time—it was paper and on the verge of shredding into little pieces, which could have clogged everything up.

      I would appreciate it if you could share a list of suppliers and prices you’ve encountered for recent replacements of brake chambers, air bags, etc. If you’d prefer not to post that information publicly, a PM would be great. I like to support Prevost Parts whenever possible, but I’d prefer not to pay higher-than-normal prices. I understand my 40-footer will have different part numbers than your 45-footer.

      Thanks again!

      #12419
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      I can’t let henpecked JPJ off the hook on this one.

      Oil and filter changes are relatively inexpensive. The most costly component in our coaches is the engine. If we owners don’t drive our buses regularly—ideally daily or, at the very least, weekly—we expose them to harsh conditions.

      For this reason, frequent oil changes should be the standard practice. There’s no downside to being a bit conservative when it comes to oil change frequency.

      #12420
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      Harry, I just had to replace some of those items because of that accident.

      #30 Brake Chamber: $47
      Air Bag: $175

      #12421
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      Joe,

      Since you’re the expert here, when do you decide to change out components? Do you wait until something fails, or do you have a schedule? We’re curious to hear your insights!

      #12422
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      I knew I’d eventually get asked this!

      Jon, since I operate very locally—never more than 10 to 15 miles away—I’ve developed a system that works well for us.

      Whenever I suspect something might be failing, I immediately purchase the part and store it in the back of my pickup truck, along with all my tools. This truck is parked just a minute from the front gate of the quarry.

      This setup allows me to run equipment a bit longer than I might otherwise risk, often saving significant time and money. To date, I’ve never had to call for a tow, and we’ve covered over 900,000 miles!

      Over time, I’ve learned that there isn’t much profit in operating a truck, and no single action can dramatically increase it. Instead, it’s about mastering many small tasks that collectively improve efficiency. I wouldn’t try this approach with the bus, which is why I usually sit back and read along with everyone else.

      That said, I want to emphasize that due to your habits and influence, I believe all the members here will excel in these areas. Your approach to maintenance is, in my opinion, unmatched for what we’re doing here. Please keep sharing your insights; we’re all listening!

      #12423
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      Home again! It was a short day, and hopefully, that will be the last time I turn the key on the Pete until April!

      A few thoughts crossed my mind after I left this morning.

      Every Friday, the last thing I do is put on my coveralls and crawl under the truck with a grease gun. I can’t count how many issues I’ve caught while doing this—things that could have caused significant problems down the line. Having someone else handle this, even a skilled mechanic, wouldn’t yield the same results.

      Learn to lube your bus yourself and do it regularly. You’ll be surprised at the issues you can identify while you’re underneath it.

      We use full synthetic lubricants across the board, except for engine oil, paired with corresponding Lucas products. I change the rear end and transmission fluids every two years. All of our original drivetrain components are still intact (except the transmission, but more on that later). If you could see the rough terrain and challenges I put that truck through, you’d understand why I take pride in it. We even have the original drive axles, which is a badge of honor in my business. Frequent failures of this nature are common, and I’m nearing that million-mile mark. Another original component still going strong is the king pins; they’re still tight, rating an 8 out of 10. Grease is essential!

      Many people claim that all oil is the same, but I disagree. We have a Cat engine, and when I first used Rotella, it consumed a gallon every 3,000 miles. I switched to Cat oil, which improved things slightly, but it wasn’t until Debbie’s brother started using Delvac (recommended by a DD mechanic for his 60 series consumption issue) that I really saw the difference. Now, I go 10,000 miles between changes, and it’s barely down a gallon. This oil is fantastic! Lucas products also help maintain an additional 5 pounds of oil pressure throughout the cycle.

      When we first bought the bus, running the A/C at idle in gear would trigger the low oil warning light and buzzer (we have an 8V92TA). It even stalled on me once, which is quite the hassle; if it dies in gear, you have to manually shift it back to neutral to restart. That usually means crawling under the rear of the bus, wherever that may be. Switching to Lucas 40-weight oil resolved that issue.

      If you ever face a drivetrain failure, avoid the rebuilt or exchange route. Instead, take your case and components and have them rebuilt. A while back, our motor developed a significant leak that required removing the transmission for repairs. At the time, with 600,000 miles on the clock, I opted for a rebuilt transmission, but the one I gave them was in better shape than what I received back.

      Besides that leak repair, the motor was only opened up once at 550,000 miles for a valve and Jake adjustment. It used to be standard practice to change rod and main bearings at 300,000 miles, but Cat mechanics found zero wear in so many motors at that point that they now recommend just taking oil samples during changes to monitor wear.

      It’s the simplest things that ultimately save you the most money, and I know all of us here are more than capable of handling them.

      As for running my parts into the ground like I do with the Pete—my dad used to say, “Do as I say, not as I do!”

      #12424
      MyPrevost
      Keymaster

      Joe,
      Nice post by you and Jon. That’s the kind of mint info we need. Thanks for taking the time to share that with us.

      Mike

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