#&%/^@$ Webasto

[MyPrevost]

I rarely use the Webasto and when I tried it the other day…nothing.
Both fuel filters are new, I can here the the timer firing the spark but the fan does not start. On the top of the unit are two sensors, one I believe is a thermostat and the other is an overtemp; if my memory serves me correctly if either of these are distressed, it will prevent the fan from starting. My question is on jumping the sensors; I don’t want to knock out the brain so to test that function they either have to be removed or jumped together…I think. Input would be appreciated.

thanks in advance

[MyPrevost]

Flyboy,

The most common reason for a non-start is a clogged nozzle, which should be replaced annually. At under $20, it’s an inexpensive fix. You can find one at:

Thermo King, Roanoke, VA, Ken Parts: 540-343-1528

Another supplier is Vehicle Systems: 800-685-4298, Fort Lupton, CO, Dan Clark in Service.

Depending on your model year (2010 vs. 2020), different volume nozzles are available. Another potential issue could be a cloudy photo cell, which needs to be clear for the “brain” to detect firing; otherwise, it sends a shutdown signal. More info can be found on my site at Prevoman.com.

Mike

[MyPrevost]

Here is the timing schedule.

The fan motor (heater motor) should start at power up. This motor also powers the fuel pump.

[MyPrevost]

I experienced a similar issue before and recall that the overtemp sensor failed, which prevented the blower motor from starting. Replacing that sensor allowed the blower to run and the system to fire up. It seems like a failsafe mechanism that prevents the system from starting if it detects an overtemp condition. My thought was to jump the sensors to see if the fan activates, but I want to avoid damaging the control unit since that’s quite expensive.

Thanks,
John

[MyPrevost]

Mike,

Great info on your site about the Webasto! I didn’t notice any details about the sensors inside the plastic shroud over the burner can. They connect back to the brain, which I assume controls the entire system.

Someone took my Webasto manual, so I had another one sent from the Denver outfit. Unfortunately, it’s geared towards getting a Webasto to work in a Peterbilt in Alaska or something similar. Not sure if mine is a 2030 or not.

Thanks,
John

[MyPrevost]

Flyu2there,

The overheat fuse is a small brass screw-in type located under the black plastic cover on top. You can jump the two small white wires to check if the fuse is blown. If your unit fires up and runs, then it’s likely the fuse. Prevost sells it for $18.00. I just replaced mine last week; my blower worked fine, but the fuel wouldn’t ignite.

[MyPrevost]

Fly4Free,

Email me, and I’ll send you a Webasto manual as a PDF. In the meantime, to check if your blower fan (heater) motor is working, determine the proper voltage for your unit (2010 or 2020) and remove the largest connector from the brain. Wire #5 is ground (brown) and wire #2 is power (black). Apply power, and the blower should start up if it’s functioning properly.

[MyPrevost]

Mango and Darrell, thanks for the helpful info you provided John. I’m experiencing the same issue, and your insights have given me a clear path to resolve it. Mango, could you CC me on the manual? I’ll reach out via email.

Thanks,
Darl

[MyPrevost]

Flyu2there, a few things:

I see a pattern with your motor homes. We might need a simpler name to call you—it could be more convenient if you come up with one yourself. After spending a few hours troubleshooting our E-Spar, you’ll likely develop a newfound appreciation for your Webasto. By the way, do you know how to read German?

[MyPrevost]

Use your voltmeter and see if you can get a positive continuity check across the two sensors, if so they are OK.
Greg

[MyPrevost]

Flyu2there, a few things:

I see a pattern with your motor homes. We might need a simpler name to call you—it could be more convenient if you come up with one yourself. After spending a few hours troubleshooting our E-Spar, you’ll likely develop a newfound appreciation for your Webasto. By the way, do you know how to read German?

Well put, Joe. Anyone who’s had issues with a Webasto should definitely try dealing with an Espar; they’re notorious! They hardly function as boat anchors either!

Hugh (D’Bug)

[MyPrevost]

Did everyone notice how he quickly responded to my suggestion of abbreviating his name before we did

Dbug you’ve got one? We need to talk.

[MyPrevost]

Flyu2there, a few things:

I see a pattern with your motor homes. We might need a simpler name to call you—it could be more convenient if you come up with one yourself. After spending a few hours troubleshooting our E-Spar, you’ll likely develop a newfound appreciation for your Webasto. By the way, do you know how to read German?

Joe,

I see what you mean…I don’t have anything from 1999 either. I bought the Intrigue new in early ’99, and shortly after I met a Canadian with a Prevost who couldn’t bring it back due to some MOT or DOT issues. The Rialta came later with only 3,000 miles. Maneuvering those coaches into our beach house driveway in Pismo became a local spectacle, especially the Intrigue with NO IFS.

Maybe I’ll just drop the “fly” and go by U2—it seems fitting for many situations.

Thanks to everyone for the Webasto insights; I’ll tackle that this weekend.

John

[MyPrevost]

Guys, (and Debi),

Looks like the new guy (now known as Gary Powers) is a member of the TBC.

Mike

[MyPrevost]

Did everyone notice how he quickly responded to my suggestion of abbreviating his name before we did

Dbug you’ve got one? We need to talk.

Sorry, Joe. I had two Espars (large and small) in a boat I sold two years ago. They weren’t the main reason for selling, but they were definitely high on the list. When they were running, it sounded like an F-15 attacking the marina. People would rush on deck to scan the skies. That rarely happened, though, since at least one was usually broken. And don’t even get me started on those 3 to 4-week delivery times for parts from the fatherland.

D’Bug

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