Keeping up with damage to the finish is a never ending saga, and it doesn’t matter if it is the stainless or the painted finish. As you experience road salt you can see stains that look like rust, you can see water spots, you will get occasional grease from the road, especially on the rear doors, sap from trees, etc. I have found for stainless that my best course of action is to clean it immediately or at least as soon as possible, and I dry it before the water drops evaporate. I think the rubbing with a towel while drying it is the best solution to prevent spotting for me. If the sun is out I wash the coach and dry it in sections. I do not use de-ionized or softened water although some advocate its use. I recently had my coach washed with de-ionized water at a rally and the guy who did it without my knowledge insisted the water spots I saw afterwards was from the prior washing. I believe he was wrong because he was the first person ever to wash my coach because I have always washed my coaches myself and I know the coach left my garage without spots.
I do not wax my stainless or use any special cleaners on it. I have found that after my coach has been dried if I see marks on the stainless such as the occasional streak from morning dew running down the sides that a polishing rag that has been heavily used to polish metals (we Liberty owners have a lot of copper to polish) works very well to remove those streaks. It might be such that you could try some metal polish to remove spots or streaks. I have been reluctant to start doing that because once you get started you realize just how much stainless there is on an XLII and how difficult it is to apply and remove metal polish. If you do want to try that, use the back doors for a test because they are a relatively small area.
Jon and Di 2006 Liberty Elegant Lady, 2021
Jeep Grand Cherokee, 1950 Ford
Knoxville, TN
Owner of three Liberty Coaches since 1990